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Seeds not planted within a few weeks should be stored in a rubber sealed glass jar placed in a cool, dark room or your refrigerator. Sow seeds indoors in early spring, or any time if you have a frost-free climate or plan to keep plants indoors. Transplants should be transferred to the garden at least two weeks after your last frost date. Plants will take at least 8-10 weeks to reach transplant size.

If you have developed a good seed starting method, go ahead and use it. In general, stevia should be treated similar to tomatoes when starting from seed. Here I describe my favorite method. I like to use individual cells or pots such as 6-pack plastic inserts. You will need a plastic flat or shallow container and a clear plastic dome or cover to go on top. Pots or cells should have drainage holes. Standard potting soil or seed starting mix works fine. If the soil is dry, moisten it slightly. Fill cells or pots level without compacting. Place 2-3 seeds on their sides in each cell or pot. Barely cover with fine horticultural vermiculite or a little potting soil.

Moisten thoroughly but gently with a spray bottle to settle the seeds and remove air pockets. Put a little water in the bottom of the flat to be absorbed from the bottom. That should be enough water until plants are up and growing. Place the clear cover on next. It’s fine if it doesn’t fit tightly. A little airflow is good. Put a thermometer under the cover. Place the container under a fluorescent light left on all the time and hung so the height can be adjusted. Keep the air temperature inside the plastic dome between 73Ëš F. and 80Ëš F. by adjusting the height of the light. A heat mat underneath could do the job as well, but the light itself improves stevia germination slightly.

In 6-12 days, tiny seedlings will begin to emerge. Take the clear cover off when more than half the pots or cells have seedlings showing. Don’t leave it on too long or the humid air will encourage damping off. At this point, leave the light on all the time at about five inches above the plants. Water from below. Pour about 1⁄4 inch of water in the bottom of the flat for the pots or cells to soak up from below. Wait 4-6 days before watering again unless the soil dries out sooner. The goal is to keep the soil slightly moist, but not soggy. Avoid getting the leaves wet.

If the potting soil lacks any compost or fertilizer, Put a few drops of seaweed fertilizer or other weak, low nitrogen fertilizer in the water starting at about the third watering. Plants usually do fine without added fertilizer. When the seedlings are old enough to tell which one in each pot is strongest, cut the others off with a scissors. At about three weeks after sowing, begin to turn the light off at night. Maintain about 14 hours of light per 24-hour period. A timer is nice for this job.

At about 8-10 weeks from sowing, the plants may be transplanted or left to grow a few more weeks. Plants may also be kept as potted plants. A 4-6 inch pot is big enough for a small plant kept trimmed. Bigger pots work even better. Harden plants off for four to six days before transplanting to the garden, placing the plants outside in a protected area on nice days and bringing them in at night.

PRE-SPROUTING METHOD:
Transplanting tiny seedlings into their own pots or cells will maximize plant numbers, but this is time consuming and may damage some seedlings. Pre-sprouting is an alternative for maximizing plant numbers. It requires a plastic flat or similar shallow container with a clear plastic dome or lid, a thermometer, a spray bottle, and some biodegradable paper towels. Spread out a single paper towel and moisten with a spray bottle. Spread the seeds across half of the paper towel. Fold the towel in half over the seeds, then in half again. Lay the folded towel in the container along with a thermometer and put on the clear lid. Place under a fluorescent light left on all the time. Adjust the distance from the light so the temperature stays between 75°F. and 80°F. Turn the towel over once a day and spray a little water to keep it moist. In several days when the sprouts have green leaves, cut out a small section of towel where each sprout is located and place each one, green leafy side up, on top of the potting soil in it’s own cell or pot. fill in with a little vermiculite or potting soil so that just the tiny green leaves are showing. Keep moist and the little plants will take root and grow!

Stevia seeds must be started inside under plant lights or fluorescent lights several weeks before transplanting outdoors. Stevia is vulnerable to cold temperatures, so set the plants out at least 2 weeks after your usual last frost date. Harden plants for 4-6 days before transplanting by placing outdoors in a protected area. Bring indoors on cold nights. Try to transplant on a cloudy day or in the evening. Use a trowel to set the plants a little deeper than they were in the pot. In a 3-foot wide bed, use two staggered rows so that plants are not directly across from one another. Space plants 14-18 inches apart in the row. Gently firm the soil around the plant with your hands. Avoid walking or kneeling on the bed itself so the soil stays loose. Water the plants well with a gentle soaking right after transplanting. A little mulch around new plants will prevent rapid drying on sunny days.

Stevia stems are brittle and tend to break in the wind. Pruning plant tips to promote branching will help, and should be done anyway for maximum leaf yield. When the main shoots are eight to twelve inches long, simply pinch or cut off growing tips. Branches will sprout where the leaves join the stem, creating a bushy plant less prone to breakage. When side branches reach seven to ten inches, go ahead and pinch leaf tips again. Pruned leaves taste good eaten on the spot. Alternatively, tip leaves may be dried or used fresh for herb tea.

Plants may be dug up and brought indoors for the winter with the use of a fluorescent shop light or grow light kept on 14-16 hours per day (a timer may be used). They will need pots large enough to comfortably hold all the roots. Indoor plants can produce useable amounts of stevia and support stock plants for taking winter cuttings. The plants tend to look half dead by the end of winter, but they usually sprout back nicely in the spring.

HORTICULTURE:
Stevia is a perennial herb with an extensive root system and brittle stems producing small, elliptic leaves. Stevia will grow well on a wide range of soils given a consistent supply of moisture and adequate drainage; plants under cultivation can reach up to 1 m or more in height (Shock 1982). Stevia is grown as a perennial in subtropical regions including parts of the United States, but must be grown as an annual in mid to high latitude regions, where longer days favor leaf yield and stevioside contents.

The tiny white florets are perfect, borne in small corymbs of 2–6 florets. Corymbs are arranged in loose panicles. Oddone (1997) considers stevia to be self-incompatible and insect pollinated. Additionally, he considers "clear" seeds to be infertile. Seeds are contained in slender achenes, about 3 mm in length. Each achene has about 20 persistent pappus bristles.

Propagation of stevia is usually by stem cuttings which root easily, but require high labor inputs. Poor seed germination is one of the factors limiting large-scale cultivation. Shock (1982), Duke (1993), and Carneiro (1997), all mention poor production of viable seeds. Propagation is a special concern for northern growers who must grow stevia as an annual.

HARVESTING:
Stevia leaves may be harvested through the summer as needed. For the biggest harvest with best quality, harvest just as the first blossoms open in the fall. Cut whole stems, leaving 1/3 of the stem length if you want to let the plant re-grow. Strip the leaves and discard the stems. Leaves may be used fresh for making tea or eaten right off the plant as a sweet treat. They taste great with mint leaves. Leaves may be dried for later use by spreading out in a warm spot with good air circulation or in a food dehydrator on low heat. Store the leaves in an airtight container such as a glass canning jar. The dried leaves remain sweet for many years and may be ground into a powder with a kitchen blender, food processor, or mortar and pestle. Now all that’s left is enjoying your sweet harvest!

PROPAGATION:
Stem cuttings root easily in late winter or early spring if two key conditions are met. First, at least 14 hours of fluorescent light per day will encourage quick rooting. Secondly, horticultural grade vermiculite or perlite seem to be the best rooting mediums. Use small pots or cell packs with holes in the bottom and water from below as needed to maintain a constantly moist medium. Cuttings should be 2-4 inches long with at least two leaf buds above ground. Remove all but 2-3 small leaves. After 2-4 weeks, transplant to a larger pot with a light soil mix and allow wait another 2-4 weeks before transplanting outdoors.

Copyright 2005, Jeffrey Goettemoeller


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	Growing Instructions For Purslane GROWING INSTRUCTIONS FOR SWEET STEVIA Starting Stevia from Seed By Jeffrey Goettemoeller Seeds not planted within a few weeks should be stored in a rubber sealed glass jar placed in a cool, dark room or your refrigerator. Sow seeds indoors in early spring, or any time if you have a frost-free climate or plan to keep plants indoors. Transplants should be transferred to the garden at least two weeks after your last frost date. Plants will take at least 8-10 weeks to reach transplant size. If you have developed a good seed starting method, go ahead and use it. In general, stevia should be treated similar to tomatoes when starting from seed. Here I describe my favorite method. I like to use individual cells or pots such as 6-pack plastic inserts. You will need a plastic flat or shallow container and a clear plastic dome or cover to go on top. Pots or cells should have drainage holes. Standard potting soil or seed starting mix works fine. If the soil is dry, moisten it slightly. Fill cells or pots level without compacting. Place 2-3 seeds on their sides in each cell or pot. Barely cover with fine horticultural vermiculite or a little potting soil. Moisten thoroughly but gently with a spray bottle to settle the seeds and remove air pockets. Put a little water in the bottom of the flat to be absorbed from the bottom. That should be enough water until plants are up and growing. Place the clear cover on next. It’s fine if it doesn’t fit tightly. A little airflow is good. Put a thermometer under the cover. Place the container under a fluorescent light left on all the time and hung so the height can be adjusted. Keep the air temperature inside the plastic dome between 73Ëš F. and 80Ëš F. by adjusting the height of the light. A heat mat underneath could do the job as well, but the light itself improves stevia germination slightly. In 6-12 days, tiny seedlings will begin to emerge. Take the clear cover off when more than half the pots or cells have seedlings showing. Don’t leave it on too long or the humid air will encourage damping off. At this point, leave the light on all the time at about five inches above the plants. Water from below. Pour about 1⁄4 inch of water in the bottom of the flat for the pots or cells to soak up from below. Wait 4-6 days before watering again unless the soil dries out sooner. The goal is to keep the soil slightly moist, but not soggy. Avoid getting the leaves wet. If the potting soil lacks any compost or fertilizer, Put a few drops of seaweed fertilizer or other weak, low nitrogen fertilizer in the water starting at about the third watering. Plants usually do fine without added fertilizer. When the seedlings are old enough to tell which one in each pot is strongest, cut the others off with a scissors. At about three weeks after sowing, begin to turn the light off at night. Maintain about 14 hours of light per 24-hour period. A timer is nice for this job. At about 8-10 weeks from sowing, the plants may be transplanted or left to grow a few more weeks. Plants may also be kept as potted plants. A 4-6 inch pot is big enough for a small plant kept trimmed. Bigger pots work even better. Harden plants off for four to six days before transplanting to the garden, placing the plants outside in a protected area on nice days and bringing them in at night. PRE-SPROUTING METHOD: Transplanting tiny seedlings into their own pots or cells will maximize plant numbers, but this is time consuming and may damage some seedlings. Pre-sprouting is an alternative for maximizing plant numbers. It requires a plastic flat or similar shallow container with a clear plastic dome or lid, a thermometer, a spray bottle, and some biodegradable paper towels. Spread out a single paper towel and moisten with a spray bottle. Spread the seeds across half of the paper towel. Fold the towel in half over the seeds, then in half again. Lay the folded towel in the container along with a thermometer and put on the clear lid. Place under a fluorescent light left on all the time. Adjust the distance from the light so the temperature stays between 75°F. and 80°F. Turn the towel over once a day and spray a little water to keep it moist. In several days when the sprouts have green leaves, cut out a small section of towel where each sprout is located and place each one, green leafy side up, on top of the potting soil in it’s own cell or pot. fill in with a little vermiculite or potting soil so that just the tiny green leaves are showing. Keep moist and the little plants will take root and grow! Stevia seeds must be started inside under plant lights or fluorescent lights several weeks before transplanting outdoors. Stevia is vulnerable to cold temperatures, so set the plants out at least 2 weeks after your usual last frost date. Harden plants for 4-6 days before transplanting by placing outdoors in a protected area. Bring indoors on cold nights. Try to transplant on a cloudy day or in the evening. Use a trowel to set the plants a little deeper than they were in the pot. In a 3-foot wide bed, use two staggered rows so that plants are not directly across from one another. Space plants 14-18 inches apart in the row. Gently firm the soil around the plant with your hands. Avoid walking or kneeling on the bed itself so the soil stays loose. Water the plants well with a gentle soaking right after transplanting. A little mulch around new plants will prevent rapid drying on sunny days. Stevia stems are brittle and tend to break in the wind. Pruning plant tips to promote branching will help, and should be done anyway for maximum leaf yield. When the main shoots are eight to twelve inches long, simply pinch or cut off growing tips. Branches will sprout where the leaves join the stem, creating a bushy plant less prone to breakage. When side branches reach seven to ten inches, go ahead and pinch leaf tips again. Pruned leaves taste good eaten on the spot. Alternatively, tip leaves may be dried or used fresh for herb tea. Plants may be dug up and brought indoors for the winter with the use of a fluorescent shop light or grow light kept on 14-16 hours per day (a timer may be used). They will need pots large enough to comfortably hold all the roots. Indoor plants can produce useable amounts of stevia and support stock plants for taking winter cuttings. The plants tend to look half dead by the end of winter, but they usually sprout back nicely in the spring. HORTICULTURE: Stevia is a perennial herb with an extensive root system and brittle stems producing small, elliptic leaves. Stevia will grow well on a wide range of soils given a consistent supply of moisture and adequate drainage; plants under cultivation can reach up to 1 m or more in height (Shock 1982). Stevia is grown as a perennial in subtropical regions including parts of the United States, but must be grown as an annual in mid to high latitude regions, where longer days favor leaf yield and stevioside contents. The tiny white florets are perfect, borne in small corymbs of 2–6 florets. Corymbs are arranged in loose panicles. Oddone (1997) considers stevia to be self-incompatible and insect pollinated. Additionally, he considers "clear" seeds to be infertile. Seeds are contained in slender achenes, about 3 mm in length. Each achene has about 20 persistent pappus bristles. Propagation of stevia is usually by stem cuttings which root easily, but require high labor inputs. Poor seed germination is one of the factors limiting large-scale cultivation. Shock (1982), Duke (1993), and Carneiro (1997), all mention poor production of viable seeds. Propagation is a special concern for northern growers who must grow stevia as an annual. HARVESTING: Stevia leaves may be harvested through the summer as needed. For the biggest harvest with best quality, harvest just as the first blossoms open in the fall. Cut whole stems, leaving 1/3 of the stem length if you want to let the plant re-grow. Strip the leaves and discard the stems. Leaves may be used fresh for making tea or eaten right off the plant as a sweet treat. They taste great with mint leaves. Leaves may be dried for later use by spreading out in a warm spot with good air circulation or in a food dehydrator on low heat. Store the leaves in an airtight container such as a glass canning jar. The dried leaves remain sweet for many years and may be ground into a powder with a kitchen blender, food processor, or mortar and pestle. Now all that’s left is enjoying your sweet harvest! PROPAGATION: Stem cuttings root easily in late winter or early spring if two key conditions are met. First, at least 14 hours of fluorescent light per day will encourage quick rooting. Secondly, horticultural grade vermiculite or perlite seem to be the best rooting mediums. Use small pots or cell packs with holes in the bottom and water from below as needed to maintain a constantly moist medium. Cuttings should be 2-4 inches long with at least two leaf buds above ground. Remove all but 2-3 small leaves. After 2-4 weeks, transplant to a larger pot with a light soil mix and allow wait another 2-4 weeks before transplanting outdoors. Copyright 2005, Jeffrey Goettemoeller Growing Instructions For Golden Incan Berry \| Goji Photos \| \| Return Home \| What's New \| Events Schedule \| Our Services \| On-line Catalog \| Great Links \| FAQ Page \| Contact Us \| Download Page \| Goji Plants \|